Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang is an Austrian artist whose practice is grounded in an intensive investigation of material, transformation and the physical limits of the body. Working across sculpture, relief, assemblage, painting and collage, he explores the tension between abstraction and figuration, presence and absence, construction and erosion.

Material serves as both the starting point and subject of Lang’s work. Through processes of compression, fragmentation, layering and reconstruction, familiar substances are transformed into objects that resist fixed interpretation. His works frequently suggest bodily or architectural forms while remaining deliberately unresolved, opening a space beyond conventional representations of the human figure.

Lang made art throughout his early adulthood before establishing the fashion label under his own name in 1978. He presented his first collection at the Centre Pompidou in Paris in 1986 and achieved international recognition over the following two decades. Throughout this period, he maintained a close dialogue with contemporary art, including collaborations with Jenny Holzer and Louise Bourgeois.

In 2005, Lang permanently withdrew from fashion to dedicate himself fully to his artistic practice. His first institutional solo exhibition of sculpture was presented at the Kestner Gesellschaft in Hanover in 2008, and his work has since been exhibited internationally and entered numerous significant collections.

Lang’s practice treats material as a site of memory, tension and transformation, examining how physical form may extend beyond the boundaries of the body.

Selected exhibitions include MOCA Westport, Westport; Sperone Westwater, New York; Dallas Contemporary, Dallas; and Saint Laurent Rive Droite, Los Angeles and Paris.

Image: Helmut Lang, portrait by Daniel Trese. Courtesy of the artist.

Two Limited-Edition Works

Henzel Studio’s collaboration with Helmut Lang comprises two limited-edition hand-knotted works: Untitled, 2013, and Untitled (Silver Edit), 2013 / 2023.

The original Untitled, created in 2013, is hand-knotted in wool and silk and constructed through a high-and-low-cut technique. Its abstract composition is translated into a tactile surface in which shifts in pile height, material and reflection create depth and a heightened sense of physical presence.

A decade later, the collaboration was revisited through Untitled (Silver Edit), 2013 / 2023. Executed entirely in silk, the work reinterprets the original composition through a monochromatic silver palette. Variations in pile height and the reflective qualities of silk allow the surface to respond continuously to light, viewpoint and its surrounding architecture.

Rather than functioning as reproductions of an image, both works extend Lang’s sculptural investigation into textile form. Their relief-like surfaces transform the floor into a material field shaped by light, texture, abstraction and spatial perception.

Together, the two works translate Lang’s exploration of material transformation into hand-knotted textile objects positioned between sculpture, relief and functional form.

Image: Helmut Lang, Untitled (Silver Edit), 2013 / 2023 (in-situ)

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